With very little effort, most do-it-yourselfers can change the appearance of a room using peel-and-stick floor tile or commercial-grade “dry back” floor tile.
To install peel-and-stick floor tile, you need:
- Tape Measure
- Utility Knife
- Chalk Line
- Fix-All® Floor Patch Compound
- For plain back tile, you’ll also need floor tile adhesive and a 1/32” deep-notched trowel
Before placing tile over wood floors or new concrete, make sure the floor is moisture proof by taping a 2″X2″ piece of plastic film to the middle of the floor. In 24 hours, if moisture has accumulated under the “test” film, you have a moisture problem and the floor should be sealed.
Next, find the center of the room. Measure and mark the center points of two opposite walls. Using a carpenter’s square, determine if the intersecting lines are at 90-degrees angles. Then “snap” the chalk line.
To lay your tiles, start in one quadrant. Do not remove the backing-paper from more than one tile at a time.
Most floor tiles have arrows printed on the back. Lay your tiles so that the arrows are all facing the same direction. Lay the first tile at the center point of the floor, making sure it is square with the bisecting guidelines. Continue laying one row along the guidelines in the quadrant, then work outward from the first row in a pyramid fashion. To trim the tiles for the borders, align a new tile exactly over the last set tile from the wall. Place a third tile over as a guide, score a line with a utility knife on the tile immediately under it. Snap the second tile on the scored line and fit the piece that was not covered by the top tile into the boarder.
To cut irregular shapes or curves, bend a piece of solder wire and transfer the curve to the tile being marked. To cut intricate shapes, heat the tile with a hair dryer until it is pliable, then make the cuts with a utility knife or tin snips.
After the border tiles have been cut and placed, install moldings or cove base to hide trim spacing where the floor tile meets the wall.